Australia's Golden Outback 2024 Holiday Planner
Travel information and inspiration for a journey to the Golden Outback!
ESPERANCE & THE FITZGERALD COAST
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THE GASCOYNE MURCHISON
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THE WHEATBELT
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KALGOORLIE & THE GOLDFIELDS
GOLDEN OUTBACK HOLIDAY PLANNER 2024 AUSTRALIA’S
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Region | 1
LEONORA | ALICE SPRINGS
Leonora Lodge was originally a mining village for FIFO workers at the nearby Sons of Gwalia gold mine.Today, the history continues with Leonora Lodge housing local mine workers alongside tourists. Stay in our well-appointed Studio room - It’s taste of mine life with added comfort and amenities such as a large screen TV, queen bed and kitchenette with Nespresso coffee machine. With a fully catered kitchen serving buffet breakfasts, packed lunches and hearty dinners, Leonora Lodge has all the amenities you need and is the ideal place to base yourself while you explore all the region has to offer!
If you’re travelling in a caravan Leonora Caravan Park is a small, friendly oasis right in the centre of town.The park is a popular base for prospectors who come back year after year looking for gold and sharing their stories around a camp fire at the end of a day. It is also an ideal base for exploring the famous Golden Quest Discovery Trail and Leonora Loop Trails. If you’re on your way to the Northern Territory you can stay with us in our newly developed Alice Village . With everything from a single unit with private ensuite to a 4-bedroom house we have accommodation options to suit any traveller, whether on a solo trek through the Red Centre or travelling with a large group.
For more information see our website www.opl.net.au or call one of our properties on the below: Leonora Lodge (08) 9037 7053 Leonora Caravan Park (08) 9037 6568 Alice Village (08) 8953 2643
2 | Region | australiasgoldenoutback.com
H it the road and let endless horizons lead the way as you take in the dazzling displays of wildflowers, rugged rocky outcrops, wild woodlands, brilliant beaches, and vast open plains of Australia’s Golden Outback. Networks of road trips sprawling throughout the region will take you far and wide, covering 54 per cent of Western Australia. In the north discover Gascoyne Murchison, the red heart of the state where pindan soils sweep the plains and station stays abound for a true-blue outback experience. The expansive ranges and massive Mount Augustus / Burringurrah are majestic sites to behold. Venture to the Wheatbelt where country charm emanates, carpets of canola sweep over rolling fields, and quaint streetscapes light up with character. The iconic 100m wide Wave Rock is a must-see sight, and immersive farm stays and fresh produce will give you a rich taste of the region. If Gascoyne Murchison is the red heart of state, Kalgoorlie and the Goldfields is its heart of gold. History and heritage of wild gold rush days of the late 1800s will forever be imprinted here, despite the modern mining boom transforming the Kalgoorlie-Boulder City into a progressive place to explore. Travel further south and find the spectacular coastal destinations of Esperance and the Fitzgerald Coast. Glistening blue waters, snow-white beaches and over 100 islands are in stark contrast to the red earth of the surrounding outback, making for an invigorating spot to cool off and bathe in tranquillity. Cape Le Grand National Park and Fitzgerald River National Park are paradises of biodiversity to discover. Spectacular displays of wildflowers bloom all around in season, erupting from August in the north and until November in the south. Discover these magical displays of colour on one of the regions many wildflower trails. Walk the lands and stretch your mind back to over 60,000 years ago when Aboriginal people first began tending to this Country. Ancient Aboriginal culture and remnants of history run deep through Australia’s Golden Outback and are inspiring to observe and understand. The adventure of a lifetime awaits in the untamed expanse of Australia’s Golden Outback.
While accessible to even the most inexperienced tourer, this is territory that should be respected. Use this guide to thoroughly plan ahead, contact our local visitor centres, and ensure you equip yourself properly to make the most of your adventure ahead. With so much natural beauty to explore in this vast and varied region, when you immerse yourself in its rich experiences, the time is always now.
PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY Vanguard Publishing, 26 John St, Northbridge WA 6003 | (08) 6323 1389 EDITOR | Tori Wilson tori@vanguardpublishing.com.au DESIGNER | Cally Browning
SALES DIRECTOR | Natalie Du Preez natalie@vanguardpublishing.com.au
Australia’s Golden Outback acknowledges the Traditional Custodians throughout the Golden Outback of Western Australia and their Elders, past present and emerging.
australiasgoldenoutback.com | 1
12:25pm wednesday. holiday mode activated.
Holidays really put you back in your element. For most of the year, you’re known as a ‘Project Manager’, but that’s not who you really are. To her, you’re just Dad. Before you know it, she’ll be back in her busy school routine, so you’re making the most of every moment you have on this road trip. First stop – lunch and laughter. For turning mealtime into quality time, there’s no place like Dôme.
Perth Metro, WA Regional : Albany, Bunbury, Busselton, Dunsborough, Esperance, Geraldton, Kalgoorlie, Katanning, Newman, Northam, Port Hedland, Rottnest.
domecoffees.com
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Welcome to Australia’s Golden Outback Contents Map
1
4 6 8 11
Top 13 Experiences
Unmissable Events 2024
Top Travel Tips
12
The Road to Wildflowers
Esperance & The Fitzgerald Coast
14 16 18 19 22
Flavours of Esperance Flora for All Seasons
Esperance & The Fitzgerald Coast Roadtrips Esperance & The Fitzgerald Coast Shires
The Gascoyne Murchison
30 32 35 38
Journey to the Stars
Gascoyne Murchison Roadtrips Gascoyne Murchison Shires
The Wheatbelt
46 48 52 56
The People Behind the Paddocks
Wheatbelt Roadtrips
Wheatbelt Shires
Kalgoorlie & the Goldfields The Rugged Explorer’s Roadtrip Kalgoorlie & the Goldfields Roadtrips Kalgoorlie & the Goldfields Shires
86 88 90 94
australiasgoldenoutback.com | 3
Queen Victoria Spring NR
PERMIT REQUIRED OUTBACK WAY
Great Central Rd
To Warburton
Anne Beadell Hwy PERMIT REQUIRED
Range NR
De La Poer
554km from Laverton
Gunbarrel Hwy
PERMIT REQUIRED
Kalgrlie & the
Laverton
124
Goldfields
Kalgoorlie-Boulder
Goongarrie NP 129
Hwy
Hwy
Canning Stock Route
Goldfields Hwy
104
Goldfields
135
Menzies
Gunbarrel
Leonora
Leinster
Wanjarri NR
24
165
Hwy
Wiluna
Agnew
Goldfields
Sandstone Rd 254
119
Menzies
To Newman
422km from Meekatharra
Mount Manning Range NR
Wiluna North Rd
Hwy
Mount Manning - Helena & Aurora Ranges CP
Rd
320
Rd
Sandstone
Menzies
183
Hwy
Evanston
Goldfields
Northern
-Sandstone
Great
Rd
Meekatharra
Collier
143
Range NP
233
Sandstone
Meekatharra
Rd
Bonnie Rock
Rd
Paynes Find
Karroun Hill NR
Mt Clere
Wheatbelt 42 Beacon
Rd
115
288
Meekatharra
71
Cue
Mount
Magnet
Bencubbin Moora 75 69
141
Downs
Perenjori Paynes Find Mingenew Three 86 42 53
Meekatharra
Rd
Cue
Ashburton
66
Rd
Rd
Beringarra
Rangeland Park
Karara
241
19
Carnarvon
146
123
Dalwallinu Kalannie 54
156
Rd
Kalli Rd
Rd
Hwy
140
Gascoyne
Pingandy
Cue -Dalgaranga
Murchis
Great Northern
10 Mt Augustus NP Kennedy Range NP Ullawarra 99
Yalgoo-Ninghan
Burakin
Wubin 20
Magnet
Yalgoo
84
47
Mount
130
102
Mullewa
118
Morawa
118
Rd
Carnarvon 186
Murchison
Geraldton -
162 Creek Rd Dairy
95
32
Springs
Cobra
213 Rd
200
79
Dr
Rd
Ocean
Lyndon-Minnie Creek Rd
Indian
96
50
Mullewa
Woodleigh Byro
Butchers Track
Pimbee Rd
Gascoyne Junction
Rd
Rd
160
North West Coastal Hwy
Wooramel
Wahroonga
Lyndon
Geraldton
Mullewa
Coastal
Hwy
4 | australiasgoldenoutback.com Carnarvon Carnarvon North West
Cape
Arid NP
Eyre Hwy
Duke of
Orleans Bay
Dundas NR
Le Grand NP
Cape Condingup
Norseman
Hwy
Airport
EV charging station Fuel Fuel 24/7
Visitor Information
Accredited Visitor Centre
Kambalda
Esperance
202
PERTH
Coolgardie 110
75
Kalgoorlie-Boulder
Esperance
54
38
Charles NP
Peak
184
Stokes NP
Fitzgerald Coast
Woodlands NP
Esperance & the
Goldfields
Coolgardie
Sealed Road
Unsealed Road 4WD Only
Distance (km)
National Park/
Nature Reserve
187
297
Boorabbin NP
320
49
km
Frank
Hopetoun
Hann NP
Ravensthorpe
72
Hwy
Holland Track
Jilbadji NR
Lake Hyden-Norseman Rd
King
Varley
Eastern
122
Bremer Bay
Fitzgerald River NP
116
63
Southern Cross Great
34
Bullfinch
South Coast Hwy
Newdegate
109
Hyden
Wave Rock
52
Westonia
94
Pingrup
62
Lake 50
Grace
179
Narembeen
71
54
Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast Monthly Av Temp (°C) Dec-Feb 25° Mar-May 23° Jun-Aug 17° Sep-Nov 21°
Kalgoorlie & the Goldfields Monthly Av Temp (°C) Dec-Feb 32° Mar-May 25° Jun-Aug 18° Sep-Nov 25°
73
Mukinbudin
Kulin
49
Bruce Rock
Jerramungup
23
Nungarin
92
Kukerin
81
48
Albany
58
54
Bencubbin Koorda 40 45
Kondinin
77
Merredin
Dumbleyung
Trayning
108
Katanning
Kellerberrin
52
23
38
Corrigin
44
54
89 Quairading
Wickepin 50
Wagin Arthur River
27
Hwy
70
Cunderdin
61
36
Albany
Brookton Hwy
Tammin
Broomehill
68
31
Mount Barker
66
Southern
88
48
Mthly Average Temperatures Gascoyne Murchison Monthly Av Temp (°C) Dec-Feb 37° Mar-May 29° Jun-Aug 20° Sep-Nov 29° The Wheatbelt Monthly Av Temp (°C) Dec-Feb 33° Mar-May 25° Jun-Aug 17° Sep-Nov 24°
Great
Wongan Hills
75
Narrogin
Northam Dowerin Wyalkatchem 72
Pingelly
York
39
Toodyay
Williams
Darkan
Wandering
Calingiri
Moora
Brand Hwy
Gingin
PERTH
Bunbury
Dr
Busselton
Augusta
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Region | 5 Kalgrlie & the Goldfields — Canning Stock Route — Golden Quest Discovery Trail — The Outback Way — Anne Beadell — Leonora Loop Trails — Gunbarrel Highway
— Golden Pipeline Heritage Trail
— Granite & Woodlands Discovery Trail — Wheatbelt Way
— Wildflower Way — Pathways to Wave Rock
— The Holland Way & The John Holland Track
— Wineries, Woodlands & Wheatbelt Trail
Road Trips
Gascoyne Murchis — Road to the Rock
— Kingsford Smith Mail Run — Wool Wagon Pathway — Miners Pathway The Wheatbelt
— Public Silo Trail
— Northern Wheatbelt Wonders — Pioneers’ Pathway
— Norseman Heritage Trail
Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast — Road to Esperance — Ravensthorpe Ranges — Great Ocean Drive
— Eyre Highway and Nullabor Links
Disconnect from the world and get up close with the Lucky Bay kangaroos Things to Do TOP
Discover one of the world’s largest outdoor galleries at Lake Ballard
Marvel at rare and exquisite wildflowers throughout the vast outback
Detour off the coastal highway to experience the rural lifestyle with an outback station stay
Catch some waves of a different kind at Wave Rock
Journey along the Golden Quest Discovery Trail and uncover the stories of prospecting and pioneers
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Surround yourself in a biodiversity-rich paradise within Fitzgerald River National Park
Discover paddock to plate and farm life experiences throughout the Wheatbelt
Be awestruck by the outback’s dark skies and the brilliance of its stars
Travel back in time and visit the Gwalia ghost town
Hit the road and explore the artfully quirky Tin Horse Highway
Embark on a hike or simply marvel at the world’s largest rock, Mount Augustus
Embark on a tour along the Public Silo Trail to witness awe inspiring art on a grand scale
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Unmissable SEPTEMBER • Coolgardie Day • Dalwallinu Wattle Week • Esperance Wildflower Festival • Landor Races • Meekatharra Outback Festival • Mt Magnet Races
FEBRUARY • Darkan Sheepfest MARCH • Wagin Woolarama APRIL • Merredin Show • Nullarbor Muster • Quindanning Picnic Race Day MAY • Pipeline Challenge JUNE • Goldfields Cyclassic • Leonora Golden Gift Weekend AUGUST • Australia’s Biggest BBQ EVENTS
2024
• Newdegate Machinery Field Days • Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show • Wave Rock Weekender OCTOBER • Cunderdin Classic Car Show • Kalgoorlie Cup • Kalgoorlie Desert Race • Kulin Bush Races • Reynoldson Reserve Festival NOVEMBER • Narrogin Revheads Weekend DECEMBER • Pingelly Christmas Festival • St Barbara’s Festival
• Coolgardie Rodeo • Dowerin Field Days • Junction Races • Sandstone Art Show • Wyalkatchem Rodeo
Scan here to discover more amazing regional events
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Kalgoorlie Cup
Leonora Golden Gift
Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show
St Barbara’s Festival
St Barbara’s Festival
Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show
Kalgoorlie Desert Race
Kalgoorlie Desert Race
Your next adventure starts here!
Scan the QR code code to download the Caravan & Camping WA Guide
Find inspiration for your next adventure on the open road at caravanwa.com.au
Discover regional WA aboard the Prospector train. We travel between Kalgoorlie and Perth daily and offer a variety of concessional discounts. Transwa also operate state of the art road coaches between Kalgoorlie and Esperance six times a week. To plan your journey visit transwa.wa.gov.au or call 1300 662 205 Bringing WA closer
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When you holiday in WA, book with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses and you’ll get a quality assured operator wherever you go. From hotels and guided tours to shops and services, you can expect quality, reliability and great customer service. Holiday in WA
To book your holiday with Quality Tourism Accredited Businesses, visit www.holidayinwa.com.au
Here’s a handy checklist of important items to carry on your journey: ✔ A first aid kit. ✔ A good quality, 12-volt air compressor. You will need it if you want to drive on sand or corrugated roads. ✔ A quality GPS and carry a paper map road book as back up. Don’t rely on Google Maps. ✔ C ash with a range of notes and change. Don’t rely on internet. ✔ D irty gear bag and bin bags. If you brought it with you, take it with you. levels, coolant, engine oil levels and lights, daily. 7. C heck current road conditions prior to departure. Visit travelmap. mainroads.wa.gov.au/Home/Map. 8. F or the best mobile connectivity, use Telstra. 9. V isit plugshare.com for electric vehicle charging stations.
TOP
for a Seamless Outback Experience Travel Tips A ustralia’s Golden Outback is rugged and beautiful, full of vast stretches of dry plains. Exploring it is a true adventure, warranting considered preparation.
2. Share your plans. 3. C arry two to four litres of water per person, per day. 4. I f you break down or get stuck, stay with your vehicle. 5. F uel up when you can. Don’t expect the next petrol station to be around the corner. 6. C heck your tyre pressure, battery
Here are a few top tips from the experts at Western 4W Driver to get you started. 1. G et your vehicle serviced before you depart.
Immerse yourself in the rugged wilderness of Australia’s Golden Outback, which has remained largely unchanged for billions of years. Travelling this region will arouse a feeling of venturing back into ancient times, especially when you’re with an Aboriginal guide who can reveal astonishing secrets handed down by their ancestors over thousands of years.
Image: Njaki Njaki
With a variety of experiences in hunting, food gathering, bush survival and bush medicine, your guide will take you on a unique journey along ‘hidden tracks’, which unveil a fascinatingly different perception of the country’s rich natural treasures and the influential role they play in paving their lifestyle. For the Aboriginal people, their spiritual connection to the land and natural environment is a key part of their identity. Their knowledge of the country and the sacred places that are scattered through it are priceless gems in a fast changing world and a deeply moving experience, that you’re sure to take home as lasting memories.
For more details about the full range of authentic Aboriginal tourism experiences in Australia’s Golden Outback and Western Australia, visi t www.waitoc.com . The Western Australian Indigenous Tourism Operators Council (WAITOC) is the peak not for profit organisation representing Indigenous Tourism on Country, showcasing over 100 of the best of WA’s unique Indigenous Tourism experiences & authentic cultural offerings.
waitoc
WAITOC Aboriginal Tours & Experiences
waitoc
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Region | 11
THE ROAD TO Wildflowers
A s late winter and early spring approach, the vast outback springs to life with over 12,000 varieties of wildflowers erupting from the earth. A myrid colours studded across sweeping plains herald the onset of spring. A wet winter, especially in the north, enhances this spectacle. From late July, as the season moves south, landscapes from golden canola fields to flower-studded cliffs beckon visitors to revel in their beauty. One of the most immersive ways to do so is on a self drive wildflower trail, which wind their
Hit the road and admire the magic of wildflower season in Western Australia’s Golden Outback, from endless inland plains to remote and rugged coast.
way around the region, offering an array of sights. Most are 2WD accessible, with accommodation options like farm stays and station stays welcoming travellers along the way. In the Gascoyne-Murchison region, wildflower season starts as early as July. Here, mulla mulla, sturt desert pea, and a host of other flowers thrive. The nine-day Road to the Rock road trip is the ultimate way to take in the region and its floral delights. Must-experience highlights of the route include the majestic Mount Augustus adorned with wildflowers,
By TORI WILSON
12 | australiasgoldenoutback.com
Hakea Invaginata Burakin
colourful trails along the Gascoyne River, plus the gushing waterfalls and gorges of Kennedy Ranges. By August, the wildflower season is ablaze across the Wheatbelt , in all its glory. Travelers are greeted by golden canola fields, the coveted wreath flower and a vast array of delicate orchids — from startling white sugar orchids and sunshine-hued cowslip orchids, to the incredible greens and reds of the many spider orchids. Make your way through the northern Wheatbelt towns such as Wubin, Buntine Rock, Latham, Caron Dam and Perenjori — renowned for dense blooms. Expect to admire carpets of everlastings, the unique and distinctive wreath flower, bright pink native foxgloves, many species of orchids, grevillea, acacia, purple darwinia and dampiera, thriptomene and many more distinctive wildflowers. In the northeast, take your time meandering the many towns, from Wyalkatchem with its melaleuca and verticordia, to Wongan Hills with its Koorda rose, tinsel lily and delicate orchids. View a rich array of flora, extraordinary rock formations and ancient Aboriginal history along the way. In the southeastern Wheatbelt, the diversity of wildflowers will inspire all. Explore the region’s salt lakes; picnic at Australia’s third-largest monolith, Kokerbin Rock; hunt for the holy grail of wildflowers — the rare Queen of Sheba orchid; and take in sights of the iconic Wave Rock / Katter Kich, the English name
Donkey Orchid
chosen aptly for its uncanny shape. Also in August, Kalgoorlie and the Goldfields come to life with wildflowers like bush tomatoes and daisies. Experience maximum regional highlights by exploring natural attractions like the Yellowdine Nature Reserve, Boorabin National Park, the heritage-listed Niagara Dam, and Lake Ballard — with its striking Anthony Gormley sculptures amid the swathes of wattles. From Merredin to Kalgoorlie, the highway is bursting with blooms. Admire the flame grevillea, grass leaf hakea and Roe’s featherflower, as well as a collection of semi-arid banksias including the rare Lullfitz’s banksia.
By late August, the wildflower season reaches Esperance and the Fitzgerald Coast . Hopetoun is the gateway to Fitzgerald River National Park — a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve with 1,800 types of spectacular plant species, like banksia, coneflowers, starflowers, smokebushes and numerous orchids. You may even spot to rare royal and pincushion hakeas. Noteworthy eye-candy includes the qualup bells in Ravensthorpe and picturesque views of flower fields from Frenchman Peak in the Cape Le Grand National Park. Set to the backdrop of the vast blue sea, this is a breathtaking area to admire native blooms.
australiasgoldenoutback.com | 13
Fitzgerald Coast Esperance & the
to See & Do TOP THINGS
✔ T ake a selfie with the kangaroos at Lucky Bay ✔ Marvel at the scenery along the Great Ocean Drive ✔ Explore biodiversity hotspots at Fitzgerald River National Park ✔ Check out paddock-to-plate and bush-to-bottle products from local farmers ✔ Visit Esperance’s full-sized replica of Stonehenge ✔ Experience immersive glamping on Woody Island or spend the day exploring the waters with a snorkel ✔ Explore Esperance’s Museum Village and Growers’ Markets ✔ Take an immersive cultural tour and discover the rich history of Esperance and its surrounds. ✔ Take to the skies to see the rainbow lakes dotted across the countryside ✔ Discover larger than life art, admiring the Ravensthorpe Silo Art and Farm Gate Art Trail
T ucked away in Australia’s Golden Outback, Esperance and the Fitzgerald Coast beckon as cooling coastal havens where nature’s wonders unveil themselves in every nook and cranny. With their dazzling blue waters, pristine snow-white beaches, and some of the country’s most awe-inspiring national parks, these destinations offer a unique blend of tranquillity and adventure, ideal for family getaways, group escapades, or introspective solo journeys.
14 | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | australiasgoldenoutback.com
How to Get There
visitors in this nature wonderland, allowing for intimate experiences with the environment. Beyond Cape Le Grand, the UNESCO recognised Fitzgerald River National Park emerges as another natural masterpiece. Notably, Four Mile Beach and Hamersley Inlet are remarkable spots within this park, offering spectacular landscapes and biodiversity hotspots. Serving as the entrances to this park’s beauty and worthy of exploration are Ravensthorpe, host of the world’s biggest wildflower show, and Hopetoun, known for its rugged coastal scenery and fishing. The coastal journey is made even more enchanting with two iconic drives. The Fitzgerald Coast Loop brings travellers through the heart of the region’s captivating landscapes, while The Great Ocean Drive , stretching from Esperance’s Esplanade to the magical Twilight Bay , offers an unparalleled coastal experience. These routes offer the quintessential Australian beach experience, where the vastness of the open coast allows for personal retreats into secluded coves, natural rock pool aquariums, and mesmerising sunsets. In Esperance town, a vibrant blend of culture, history, and beach life awaits — from its lively music scenes, outdoor cinemas, and bustling twilight markets to the picturesque James Street Precinct . Landmarks like the Whale Tail Sculpture and a full-size replica of Stonehenge add to the town’s charm and unique character. Just a stone’s throw from the coast, the Recherche Archipelago stands as a testament to the region’s maritime wonders. Comprising 105 islands, this archipelago offers an unparalleled marine sanctuary, home to dolphins, seals, and seabirds. Take to the sky on a scenic flight and admire the collection of brilliant Rainbow Lakes amid Esperance’s countryside — a multitude of colours, from pink to green to yellow and more. The rich Indigenous culture of the region can be explored through local eco-culture tours, where visitors can delve into the Dreaming stories and songlines of the land, gaining insight into Esperance’s Wudjari name, Kepa Kurl, which means “where the waters lie like a boomerang.”
By Road: Road conditions are excellent, with sealed main roads heading in and out of Esperance. Esperance is accessible from many of the drive routes from Perth and the Nullarbor By Air: Esperance is serviced by Rex with daily flights from Perth. Tel: 13 17 13. Skippers provides charter services from Perth to Ravensthorpe. Tel: 1300 729 924. By Coach: Transwa operates regular coach services from Perth to Esperance and from Albany to Esperance via Ravensthorpe. Tel: 1300 662 205. Lastly, for those looking to extend their adventure, the journey across the Nullarbor Plain offers a deep dive into Australia’s outback culture. Starting at Norseman, with its quirky corrugated iron dromedaries symbolising the bygone camel trains, this route takes travellers to iconic landmarks like the Caiguna Blowhole and the historic Eucla Telegraph Station ruins. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, history buff, or someone seeking solace, these coastal jewels of Australia’s Golden Outback await your discovery. Coastal Trail , Cape Le Grande NP (20km) East Mt Barren , Fitzgerald River NP (3km) Hakea Walk Trail , Fitzgerald River NP (23km) Hamersley Inlet Trail , Fitzgerald River NP (3.6km) The Woodlands Walk (0.6km) Top Trails Frenchman Peak Walktrail , Cape Le Grand NP (3km) Great Ocean Walk and Cycle Trail , Esperance (17km) Mt Arid , Cape Arid NP (3.6km)
Fitzgerald River National Park
Esperance serves as the gateway to the region’s mesmerising coastal beauty and intriguing hinterland. One of its star attractions is the majestic Cape Le Grand National Park, a sanctuary that harmoniously blends sheltered bays with imposing granite peaks, vast heathlands, and diverse native fauna. Within the national park, expect to be greeted by kangaroos basking in the sun at Lucky Bay — one of the area’s most renowned beaches, voted World’s Best Beach in 2023. The park’s campgrounds, such as Le Grand Beach and Lucky Bay, immerse
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | 15
Lucky Bay Brewing
Fishface
In Esperance, experience authentic flavours as fresh as they get — sourced locally from bush, land and sea. By ALEXANDRA CASEY Esperance FLAVOURS OF
Taylor St Quarters
W hen it comes to natural covered. Its allure is synonymous with some of Australia’s most celebrated beaches and pristine national parks. But in recent years, it’s become the paddock-to-plate microbrewery, bush to-bottle distillery, and fresh-from the-ocean foodie scene that have the masses talking. From the blue to the bush, Esperance — or Kepa Kurl, as it’s known to the Wudjari Noongar people — is a hotspot for fresh, local produce worth writing home about. Taylor St Quarters — a buzzing culinary scene, humming cocktail bar and charming, live music venue — is an apt destination to begin the ultimate Esperance foodie quest. Woven into the walls of the popular hang-out is the attractions, this secluded south-coast WA town has it
vibrant historical tapestry of a building that once housed an old hospital and tearooms. TSQ supports small local producers to source the finest and freshest flavours from land and sea, as it’s no secret the south western corner of Australia is home to some of the country’s best food and wine. The menu is constantly evolving to reflect the seasons, think tempura fish tacos, local beef burger and beer and miso braised lamb ribs. Feast on bread as fresh as it gets at Bread Local . Having been raised in Esperance by a broadacre wheat farmer, owner and baker Tiffany Brown has an innate passion for the process of sourdough. “I love that no two days are the same when you’re working with natural fermentation — it’s always a wonder seeing the bread emerge from the oven.” While
the bread is hard to beat, Tiffany says it’s the vanilla slice with passionfruit glaze that attracts the pilgrims. A self-confessed ocean enthusiast, Craig Adams has been cooking since 1983. He and his wife Dalia opened Fishface in 2016, after realising there were no restaurants at the time using local seafood other than shark. Their goal is to use only Australian seafood and hero locally caught produce. “Our focus has always been on where the fish comes from and knowing the boat and
16 | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | australiasgoldenoutback.com
Taylor St Quarters
head chef Sam Burgell, “beer literally flows into our kitchen.” The woodfired pizzas made from local flour and beer yeast are the menu hero, while other share-style offerings include pulled pork tacos and chargrilled lamb skewers. Driven by a love for spirits, surf and environmental conservation, the McCarthy-Price father-son duo behind Esperance Distillery Co is passionate about local flavours. Housed inside a once derelict fish processing plant, the award-winning distillery, which launched in December 2020, has grown from a micro-distillery operating out of a garage with a 30-litre pot still, to small-batch producing gins showcasing native botanicals — with many grown in their own garden. Inspired by the region’s beauty, the gin range features the names of Esperance locations, while the watercolour label artwork was designed by local botanist Katie White.
skipper. We utilise as much WA product as possible — usually six to nine varieties per night — to support local industry and small businesses.” The menu changes subtly every day, depending on availability, but it’s the basic fish and chips that are the favourite. Perched among a grove of olive trees with vistas of Cape Le Grand and Frenchman Peak, olive oil is the lifeblood of all operations at Yirri Grove Olive Farm . “Our restaurant menu begun with extra virgin olive oil,” owner and operator Anne O’Neill says. “It’s the start of a meal, the start of a conversation, the start of a lifestyle and for us, the start of a business.” According to Anne, their signature product features on every plate, all of which are baked and prepared onsite. Locality is central to production and due to their remote and rural location, food accessibility is a common struggle. For this reason, a vegetable patch was introduced — the
root of their Mediterranean-inspired meals. Born in England, Anne traces her love for living off the land back to her grandparents and their farm. “Everything was grown and produced — I remember learning so much from them.” As a teenager Anne migrated to a remote Australian sheep station where fresh food was non-existent, so they grew their own. Inspired by nature, sustainability and an appreciation for the beauty of home, Lucky Bay Brewing is guided by a paddock-to-pint ethos, with beers named in honour of Esperance locations. It’s the only WA brewery that uses raw barley direct from local farmers to make beer. Their emphasis on locality reduces their carbon footprint, as the process doesn’t require the water, energy or food miles that malted barley does to be produced. The award-winning microbrewery also doesn’t use any preservatives, only pure ingredients, fresh rain water and real hops. According to
Over 30 Flavours of Ice Cream Take Away Foods Homemade Pies & our Famous Sausage Rolls Lunch Time Specials Catering - Platters Gourmet Salads
9072 0002 Cnr The Esplanade & Emily Street
HOSPITALITY ESPERANCE Well appointed rooms in town centre overlooking Esperance Bay!
Enjoy Esperance and surrounds whilst our friendly team take care of you. Quality assured, great value accommodation and superior service ensuring an effortless stay and a reliable hotel experience.
• Seasons Restaurant open daily • Foxtel -including movies & sport • FREE wireless internet
• FREE guest laundry • Includes continental breakfast daily
44 The Esplanade, Esperance | T: (08) 9071 1999 | E: esperance@hospitalityinns.com.au | W: www.hospitalityinnesperance.com.au
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | 17
Experience year-round displays of vibrant blooms at Fitzgerald National Park By DANIELLE AUSTIN Flora for All Seasons:
Giant Banksia (Banksia Grandis)
F itzgerald River National Park is renowned as one of Australia’s most significant botanical parks, and for good reason. As the crowning jewel of the UNESCO-recognised Fitzgerald Biosphere, the park is not only home to one-fifth of the state’s identified plant species but here, there is no single wildflower season — blooms burst forth year-round. Nature cycles through various vivid displays in tandem with the six Noongar seasons, the most accurate prediction of flora patterns. Birak (December-January) Birak, which stretches from around December through January, is the real start of the warm season. Splashes of bright yellow buttercups paint the region, bulbous flowers of the banksia are in full bloom, and heady eucalyptus can be found all around. With many plants producing intoxicating nectar, you’ll likely be treated to the sight of foraging birds — with around 210 species of birds found in Fitzgerald River National Park — as well as curious honey and pygmy possums. Melaleucas and coastal moorts shade the coastal campgrounds, protecting native fauna. Bunuru (February-March) The heat only intensifies come Bunuru, the orange season of February through March. Under the crush of the blazing sun, it’s a perfect time of year to stick close to the Fitzgerald River, or in the shallows of the coastline. Despite the heat, native eucalypts burst into bloom in Bunuru, breaking through the haze with their fresh cream flowers. Admire towering salmon gums, the tallest trees in the area.
Djeran (April-May) With April and May come Djeran. The green season welcomes cooler weather and pleasant breezes, with plenty of plant life enjoying the spoils of the season. Early banksia flowers, qualup bells and hakea can all begin to appear during Djeran, with scarlett banksia particularly vibrant. With native fruits emerging, birds are enticed into the region. Makuru (June-July) As the skies open up and a chill descends on the ground, the Fitzgerald Coast welcomes Makuru. The rainy season, spanning June and July, is
characterised by the blues of falling rain and overcast skies. A smattering of melancholy flowers greets the season, the purple-blue mauves and lilacs of the herbaceous blueberry lily and the grassy purple flag forming groundcover as clouds roll overhead. Djilba (August-September) Carpets of wildflowers erupt in Djilba, transforming the Fitzgerald Coast into a kaleidoscopic of colour. This season is about new life, and as hundreds of native wildflower species lift their heads to greet warmer weather, the sweet sounds of newborn animals and their proud parents also ring through the region. Discover local qualup bells, with their imminently recognisable, soft pink drooping petals, and countless native orchids drawing in wildflower hunters from far and wide. TIME YOUR TRIP — the spectacular Ravensthorpe Wildflower Show in September, celebrating the brilliant displays of the area’s blooms, with over 700 flowering species on display and a series of curated events. Kambarang (October-November) With Kambarang in October and November comes a return of radiant weather. Verticordias or feather flowers are in full bloom in every colour of the rainbow, and smoke bush envelopes the landscape. Acacias, banksias, kangaroos paws, orchids, and recently burnt balga grass trees continue to bloom, while the eye-catching saffron orange flowers of the Australian Christmas tree emerge to mark the end of the year.
Chittick (Lambertie inermis)
Hikes & Drives The world-class Hakea Trail and the Mamang Trail are the ultimate hikes to witness wildflowers in all their glory, though trails of various lengths and difficulties sprawl the national park. Chase wildflowers by road on the 40-kilometre Ravensthorpe Range drive.
18 | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | australiasgoldenoutback.com
ROAD TRIPS
Esperance & The Fitzgerald Coast
Wheatbelt Roadtrips
ADS
KALGOORLIE-BOULDER
LEGEND
38km
Coolgardie
Sealed road Unsealed road
54km
Southern Cross
ROAD TRIPS
Kambalda
187km
TO PERTH
Road to Esperance Ravensthorpe Ranges Great Ocean Drive Eyre Highway and Nullabor Links
110km
Jilbadji Nature Reserve
Fraser Range Station
Lake Johnston Campground
162km
108km
82km
Norseman
McDermid Rock
TO EUCLA 507km
297km
Hyden Wave Rock
Balladonia Roadhouse
The Breakaways Campground
Dundas Nature Reserve
Balladonia
Toolinna Cove
TO PERTH
122km
96km
Frank Hann NP
Peak Charles NP
Salmon Gums Grass Patch
Lake King
63km
28km 53km
Newdegate
72km
Nuytsland NR
45km
Ravensthorpe
85km
Cape Arid NP
Munglinup
Gibson
Condingup
Israelite Bay
50km
105km
116km
Fitzgerald River NP
Stokes NP ESPERANCE
Stokes Inlet
Jerramungup
Cape Pasley
Wharton
Hopetoun
Lucky Bay Cape Le Grande
Cape Arid
TO ALBANY
Middle Island
Cape Le Grand NP
Mondrain Island
SOUTHERN OCEAN
Archipelago of the Recherche
Bremer Bay
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Region | 19
Toolinna Cove
Twilight Bay
THE GREAT OCEAN DRIVE 1-2 hours | Sealed roads Shires along your journey: Esperance The road trip that should be on everyone’s bucket list, the Great Ocean Drive is a 40km circular loop showcasing a coastal wonderland of stunning, powder-white beaches, rocky headlands, small bays of crystalline water, steep cliffs and hidden ocean pools. Highlights include the Rotary Lookout (an ideal first stop), the famous Twilight Bay, Observatory Point and Lookout, 11 Mile Beach, and Nine Mile Beach renowned for its serene rock pools. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also cycle or walk the trail, following the coast from the Esplanade all the way to Twilight Bay. The best way to travel the Great Ocean Drive is slowly. Plan a picnic lunch, throw in your towel, picnic rug, snorkel and fins, surfboard or just your walking shoes. Wherever you go on this loop, the views are constant and amazing.
EYRE HIGHWAY & NULLARBOR LINKS 2 Days | Sealed roads
back at the lookout at Madura. The Eyre Bird Observatory, a remote research station, has fantastic programs (check them out online) and the 10th hole of the Nullarbor Links course at Cocklebiddy is a top introduction to Nullarbor Links — The world’s longest golf course. The aptly named 90 Mile Straight will bring you to Balladonia by nightfall. Explore the remains of Skylab station — which plummeted to earth in 1979 — at the nearby Balladonia Hotel, before continuing west. Take your time
Shires along your journey: Dundas The Nullarbor Plain, with the epic Eyre highway to follow, is easily one of Australia’s greatest road trip adventures. Take off into the west from the border town of Eucla down the sweeping highway into the scenic lower Nullarbor around Mundrabilla, then pause to look
Esperance Bay Holiday Park
Book online today summerstar.com.au
162 Dempster St Esperance WA
20 | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | australiasgoldenoutback.com
ROAD TO ESPERANCE 7 days | Sealed roads Shires along your journey: Kondinin, Lake Grace, Dumbleyung, Wagin, Ravensthorpe and Esperance Esperance is a picture-perfect reel of nature’s wonders with an abundance of pearl-white beaches boasting translucent blue waters, and rugged national parks. Expect to experience a glorious journey, worthy of this stunning destination, on the 700km stretch to Esperance from Perth. You can take two routes, so mix it up and see different perspectives of the Wheatbelt region. Go out via Hyden so you can take the famous surfing selfie at Wave Rock, then admire the bright white salt lakes at the Lake King Nature Reserve. Ravensthorpe is home to the superb 25m high wildflower murals of the PUBLIC Silo Trail, then head for the Southern Ocean and soon you’ll be in the charming coastal town and savour the sense of space and timelessness that makes the Nullarbor unique. Soon you’ll arrive at Norseman, the end of this 880km trip and the Eyre Highway. Next to the town’s cute tin camels is a photographic gallery where the region’s stunning landscapes are captured in prints. To appreciate the vastness of the place, drive up to Beacon Hill Lookout before heading either north to Kalgoorlie or south to Esperance.
photogenic kangaroos of Lucky Bay along the way, swim, snorkel or walk on some of the most incredible beaches in the world, or simply chill with a craft beer at the local Lucky Bay Brewing. Finally, book a boat cruise to explore some of the 105 islands of the Recherche Archipelago, locally known as the Bay of Isles. You can also see the islands from the air if you hop on a scenic flight of the local coastline.
of Esperance. On the way back, stop for more supersized art at Newdegate, before heading through the Southern Wheatbelt countryside including Lake Grace, Dumbleyung and Wagin. In Esperance, spend at least a day exploring Cape Le Grand National Park and, while there, climb Frenchman Peak for stunning views of the ocean and the myriad offshore islands. Meet the
Esperance Beach
Ravensthorpe Silos
DISCOVER MORE Ravensthorpe Ranges 2- 3 hours (sealed/unsealed roads)
Scan the QR code for more insights.
Come and excite your senses with the seasonal plants and bushfoods along our beautiful walk trails hidden amongst the breathtaking backdrop of Esperance. Each walk takes approximately 1.5hrs, finished with a bushtucker morning tea. To see our tours and walk classifications to suit your needs, visit our website dabungool.com.au or give us a call on 0455 031 797 . 0455 031 797 dabungool.com.au A family run tourism business
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | 21
This natural treasure is a haven for a variety of wildlife, as well as a hotspot for holiday makers. Fishing charters and island cruises available. Mount Ridley — Marbeleerup Head north out of Esperance and explore our hinterland. The coast is a distant memory out here but you may encounter ancient Aboriginal cave art that shows a whaling ship in action and also enjoy a surf on ‘Wave Rock’. The climb to the summit of this wave shaped rock is of medium difficulty but the spectacular views make it very worthwhile. 4WD access only. Duke of Orleans Bay East of Cape le Grand National Park, you’ll find breathtaking beaches made of snow-white sand, washed by turquoise blue waters and framed with a backdrop of rugged granite peaks. Wharton Beach in particular is a sight to behold and for those looking to setup camp or settle in at a chalet, there’s a lovely caravan park nearby. This area is dog friendly. Munglinup Beach & Oldfield Estuary West of Esperance, you’ll find Munglinup Beach and the Oldfield Estuary. Picturesque views of the winding inlet and a rugged coastline await. The estuary offers small boat access for fishing and is a great place for canoeing, or strolling along the walk trail. The Munglinup Beach Holiday Park is not far if you would like a place to stay overnight. Lake Hillier, Middle Island This lake is a cause for fascination but
Shire of ESPERANCE
Thistle Cove Walk
ESPERANCE 721km south-east of Perth
designed to be a learning experience with bird hides and seating along the way. A short drive from town and nestled out of the wind, this one way 3.5km trail is perfect for families with young children. For a different perspective, explore the lakes from kayak or canoe. Lake Monjingup An ideal place for a picnic, birdwatching and walk through the bush or along the boardwalk, the Environmental Centre at Lake Monjingup has plenty of information about the various plants and animals which live there. With toilets and picnic tables, the reserve makes for a fantastic day out for the whole family. Peak Charles National Park — Karrukarrunya (4WD recommended) This ancient granite peak and its companion, Peak Eleanora, give sweeping views over the dry and plain heaths and salt lake systems of the surrounding countryside. The park lies within the Great Western Woodlands, an internationally significant area of great biological richness. Recherche Archipelago The 105 islands of Recherche Archipelago offer incredible spots for fishing, diving, snorkelling and sailing.
NATURAL ATTRACTIONS Breathe deep and experience the best of the great outdoors in beautiful Esperance. Situated in isolated splendour, surrounded by stunning national parks, on the south-east coast of Western Australia, Esperance is one of the few remaining places on earth where you can often enjoy a beach all to yourself. It boasts spectacular white sand and crystal-clear water, remote camping wilderness experiences, and fantastic fishing and 4WD opportunities. Cape Arid National Park This spectacular park is a place for the truly adventurous and bold explorers. You can see ruins of homesteads, buildings and dams constructed by pioneer graziers in the early 1870s, camp under the stars, and walk through the magnificent landscapes to your heart’s content. 4WD vehicles and outdoor experiences are highly recommended. Check road closures before heading out. Kepwari Wetland Walk Trail Kepwari is the local Aboriginal word for ‘place of moving water’ and this interpretive walk trail in the wetlands is
Frenchman Peak
22 | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | australiasgoldenoutback.com
WHAT’S ON Family Fun Day in the Park — 26 Jan 2024 (Australia Day) Winter Wonderland — July 2024 Esperance Wildflower Festival — Sept 2024 Esperance Districts & Agricultural Show — Oct 2024 Edge of the Bay Festival — 30 Nov 2024 New Year’s Eve (at the foreshore) — 31 Dec 2024 TOP ATTRACTIONS The Great Ocean Drive / Peak Charles National Park – Karrukarrunya / Cape le Grand National Park / Lake Monjingup / Mount Ridley – Marbeleerup WILDFLOWERS TO DISCOVER Spider orchids / Pincushion hakeas / Banksias / Kangaroo paw TIP: More than just a quick getaway, Esperance is the ideal place to ‘get away from it all’. To book accommodation, find the perfect restaurant or pub or to explore more of the coastal region, head over to visitesperance.com to plan your perfect holiday. At a Glance ESPERANCE VISITOR CENTRE Cnr Dempster Street and Kemp Street, Esperance T: (08) 9083 1555 or 1300 664 455 E: info@visitesperance.com W: visitesperance.com different elements and obstacles varying in difficulty at the Skate Park & Pump Track. This hub of multigenerational interaction activity invites families and individuals to join in and enjoy the space. Remember to skate and ride to your abilities.
Lucky Bay
Mudjar Aboriginal Gallery This gallery is community and fair trade focused, featuring a powerful collection of local artworks, authentic handcrafted traditional tools and ethically created and sourced giftwares. This guarantees that the original artists and their communities benefit from the royalties of all items sold, projecting their unique stories and talents. Esperance Foreshore & Jetty Grab a coffee and take a leisurely stroll along the foreshore and Esperance Jetty. More than a kilometre of oceanfront by the town centre is beautifully landscaped. Enjoy walking paths, exercise equipment, public artworks (including the Whale Tail sculpture), all abilities and nature playgrounds, barbecue facilities, picnic shelters, beach access, and an enclosed swimming area and lap pool. Museum Park Village Wander through the historical buildings of Museum Village. You’ll find art, craft and design shops. Don’t miss the bustling Sunday markets regularly held in the village. Adventureland Park Let the kids blow off some steam in this beautiful open space. Perfect for a picnic, there’s plenty to do with various playgrounds, a duck pond, mini golf, and the mini steam train (October 1 to April 30). Youth Precinct – Skate & Pump Track Test out your skate skills on an array of
Middle Island holds a greater mystery, with the ruins of the camp of Australia’s rumoured pirate, Black Jack Anderson. The island is located off the coast of Cape Arid, and while the lake is not currently its signature bubblegum pink colour, it can be visited by helicopter or plane. Contact Esperance Visitor Centre to discuss the best option for you and arrange a booking. ARTS, CULTURE & COMMUNITY With a population of almost 14,000, Esperance is home to a vibrant community abundant in history, creativity and culture. Bordered by the stunning Esperance Foreshore, the Esperance town centre offers unique retail with specialty crafts stores, markets, cafés, facilities, tourism attractions and much more. Esperance Museum As one of Western Australia’s outstanding regional museums, view the world’s largest and most comprehensive displays of Skylab (the first American space station), the Sanko Harvest (the largest diving wreck off the Australian coast) and learn about the agricultural Located in town, the Cannery Arts Centre is a premier exhibition space and the gallery doubles as an event space for the local music scene. You’ll find touring exhibitions, studios, and art and craft shops featuring local works for sale. Keep an eye out for events and workshops at this venue. history of the region. Cannery Arts Centre
australiasgoldenoutback.com | Esperance & the Fitzgerald Coast | 23
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